I recently had the opportunity to talk with my friend Don Decker of the Apache nation about what the San Francisco Peaks mean to him and his people. We were doing the interview while hiking the Kachina Peaks Wilderness Trail for the next episode of my video series Preserving Arizona Wilderness, due out November 15 on YouTube.
Listening to Don talk about what the Peaks mean to him and about how the area is sacred to 13 tribes and appreciated by non-Native Americans as well is special.
I have hiked the Kachina Trail at least once a year for more than 20 years because it is such a special place. This hike brought videographer Zach Kline to the trail for the first time, and he was clearly in awe of the natural beauty, stopping often to shoot the beautiful aspens and ferns, the peaks above and the spectacular views of Flagstaff below.
This time we were a little too early for the aspens, but the ferns were in their golden phase, creating fields of gold along the trail.
Don spoke about the significance of the Peaks to the Apache people of the Verde Valley and how the area’s environment plays an important role in his culture. This gave me some pause, thinking about all the hikes I’ve walked on what either had been or remains Native American land, and their importance to our first nations. It’s something to consider whenever we hit the trail in Arizona.
The Kachina Peaks Wilderness, designated by Congress in 1984, covers 18,616 acres. Its six trails include Humphreys Peak, which reaches the highest point in Arizona, Weatherford Trail, Bear Jaw Trail, Abineau Trail and Inner Basin Trail.
The area is named for the katsinas that Hopi tradition tells us live here for part of every year. In midsummer these deities fly from the top of the peaks to the Hopi mesas as clouds, bringing the nourishing rains of the seasonal monsoon.
The Kachina Trail starts at more than 9,350 feet in elevation, and often dips to 8,800 on its many ups and downs. One of the 200-foot climbs coming out in the sun made for a huff and puff. This hike is rated ‘hard’ by Richard and Sherry Mangum in their book Flagstaff Hikes, but the trees provide plenty of shade for breaks, and hikers can turn around at any point.
The trail covers 9.8 miles round-trip, and hooks into trails to Doyle Saddle to the left and Friedlein Prairie Road to the right, so you can make this as long or short as you like. It can be rugged due to its rocky terrain and some scree on parts, but most of the trail is clear.
About three-quarters of a mile into the hike a Kachina Peaks wilderness sign pops up. A bit after that comes the rockiest part of the trail, and shortly after that a small cave appears for another shady break, where the temperature cools by a good 15 degrees.
Most of the flowers are gone by now, but during the summer lupines, firecracker penstemons and other blossoms can be abundant.
The scenic views are incredible. At every break in the trees you can see Flagstaff below and the Doyle and Fremont Peaks above. Even the few areas where the trees have burned over offer great views. Part of the trail had to be reconfigured in the last 18 months because of fire.
I have seen bears, butterflies, horned lizards and many other animals on the trail over the years.
These areas are worth preserving for the beauty they hold, including the landscapes, animals and birds, and I often ponder what might happen to these lands if they were not protected. For me it’s just one more reason to make sure I pack all my trash out and live by the hiker’s creed: leave no trace. Dogs are allowed on the trail, but should be leashed. There are no restrooms at the trailhead.
This is a trail worth spending time on, so bring water and snacks or lunch.
Stan Bindell is always looking for a good hike. If you have one, contact him at thebluesmagician@gmail. com